I made pants for me!

DSCN1085But they’re not as cute as CC’s. :-(I have always had trouble finding pants that fit and flatter. Unless I wear pants up on my ribs, my waist is very wide. My butt is flat and wide and my thighs are on the thin side. B5818 looked like a good basic starting point to develop a pattern that would fit me.B5818

Pattern Description: 
“Semi-fitted, slim, boot-cut, straight or flared legged pants have contour waistband, side front pockets, and fly front zipper and hook closure.” I made View A, the slim legged version.B5818

Pattern Sizing:
My measurements are waist 34, hip 41. I cut a size 14 (36-28-38)
which fit at the hips but had to be let out at the waist and taken in at the thighs.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Not really. They are more tapered than slim-leg pants. They came out quite baggy despite how much I tried to take out of the thighs. This may have to do with the wool fabric I chose and/or my figure.

DSCN1083

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, but I didn’t always follow them. Sometimes I followed the instructions from Vogue 1059. Sometimes I followed the instructions in Lorna Knight’s “The Dressmaker’s Technique Bible.”

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the crotch curve because it worked for me. And all the possible leg variations.

Fabric Used:
Wool woven. (Thick and soft, maybe flannel?) Rayon bemberg lining. Quilting cotton for facings and flies.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
For fit: I made a muslin to work out the fitting alterations. The crotch and hips were fine. I added 2 1/2 inches to the waist by straightening up the center front, adding to the front side seams, and leaving off the back darts. I slash and spread the contour waistband. I lowered the waistband 1/2 an inch all around. At the very last minute I lowered it another 1/2 inch at the center back, tapering up to the sides. Kind of an improvised flat-butt adjustment (the other FBA!), I guess. I took in quite a bit at the thighs, tapering to the knees. But I was cautious there because I didn’t want to mess up the crotch or the grainlines. Now I wish I had removed more because there is a lot of fabric ballooning around my thighs.

DSCN1088

For design and construction: I decided the cut-on fly wouldn’t work in this thick wool so I used the fly pattern and instructions from Vogue 1059. I also used the pockets pattern and the rear welt-pockets from there. (I placed the back pockets too low, however.) I added twill tape to the front pocket edge and followed Lorna Knight’s pocket instructions. I also added twill tape in the waistband and stitched-in-the-ditch instead of slip-stitching the facing. I flat-felled the crotch and inseam by machine, hand flat-felled and then edgestitched the outseam. The biggest change I made was adding a full lining.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Maybe with one of the other leg options, in a different fabric. I would recommend it as a good standard pants pattern with useful variations.

Conclusion: 
It was probably foolish of me to try to make slim-legged pants in wool!

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