Archive for October, 2013

I made pants for me!

October 10, 2013
DSCN1085But they’re not as cute as CC’s. :-(I have always had trouble finding pants that fit and flatter. Unless I wear pants up on my ribs, my waist is very wide. My butt is flat and wide and my thighs are on the thin side. B5818 looked like a good basic starting point to develop a pattern that would fit me.B5818

Pattern Description: 
“Semi-fitted, slim, boot-cut, straight or flared legged pants have contour waistband, side front pockets, and fly front zipper and hook closure.” I made View A, the slim legged version.B5818

Pattern Sizing:
My measurements are waist 34, hip 41. I cut a size 14 (36-28-38)
which fit at the hips but had to be let out at the waist and taken in at the thighs.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Not really. They are more tapered than slim-leg pants. They came out quite baggy despite how much I tried to take out of the thighs. This may have to do with the wool fabric I chose and/or my figure.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, but I didn’t always follow them. Sometimes I followed the instructions from Vogue 1059. Sometimes I followed the instructions in Lorna Knight’s “The Dressmaker’s Technique Bible.”

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the crotch curve because it worked for me. And all the possible leg variations.

Fabric Used:
Wool woven. (Thick and soft, maybe flannel?) Rayon bemberg lining. Quilting cotton for facings and flies.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
For fit: I made a muslin to work out the fitting alterations. The crotch and hips were fine. I added 2 1/2 inches to the waist by straightening up the center front, adding to the front side seams, and leaving off the back darts. I slash and spread the contour waistband. I lowered the waistband 1/2 an inch all around. At the very last minute I lowered it another 1/2 inch at the center back, tapering up to the sides. Kind of an improvised flat-butt adjustment (the other FBA!), I guess. I took in quite a bit at the thighs, tapering to the knees. But I was cautious there because I didn’t want to mess up the crotch or the grainlines. Now I wish I had removed more because there is a lot of fabric ballooning around my thighs.


For design and construction: I decided the cut-on fly wouldn’t work in this thick wool so I used the fly pattern and instructions from Vogue 1059. I also used the pockets pattern and the rear welt-pockets from there. (I placed the back pockets too low, however.) I added twill tape to the front pocket edge and followed Lorna Knight’s pocket instructions. I also added twill tape in the waistband and stitched-in-the-ditch instead of slip-stitching the facing. I flat-felled the crotch and inseam by machine, hand flat-felled and then edgestitched the outseam. The biggest change I made was adding a full lining.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Maybe with one of the other leg options, in a different fabric. I would recommend it as a good standard pants pattern with useful variations.

It was probably foolish of me to try to make slim-legged pants in wool!


Rolling in Cloth

Where you can see what is coming out of my sewing room

The Perfect Nose

Sewing, illustration and design.

Sown Brooklyn

Making shit and talking shit. Since 1979

The Stitchery

A Personal Journal


Essential sewing keeping me clothed and sane